Collagen Craze

What are collagen supplements for?

Collagen supplements are mainly marketed for those looking to improve their skin texture and health. Many collagen supplements boast that taking them will slow signs of aging in the skin by improving skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles. As we age, our collagen production slows, steadily dropping off leading to visibly less elasticity and bounce. However, what exactly are we taking when we consume these supplements-and what does the science say? Per the 1994 FDA Dietary Supplement and Health and Education Act, the FDA is not authorized to approve the effectiveness or safety of supplements on the market. This makes it even more crucial to investigate research that is peer reviewed and protected from marketing and monetary benefits. 

What is collagen? 

Collagen is a protein that is abundant in the body, and is largely present in the extracellular matrix (ECM). This matrix is outside of the cells and allows for cellular organization in the body. In mammals, there are more than 20 different types of collagen. 

Collagen is primarily composed of amino acids such as proline, glycine, and hydroxyproline. These amino acids are more highly organized in structures called fibrils, and further organized into fibers. These fibers are combined in helical structures that wrap around each other in long strands. 

Collagen is present in more places than just the skin, including the tendons, bones, and arteries. Collagen can be supplemented through your diet by consuming foods such as dairy, beans, beef, and fish. As we age, our collagen production, like many bodily functions, slows down. Additionally, collagen is degraded at a larger rate as humans age- specifically in postmenopausal women. In addition to the natural degradation of collagen, there are several things that can catalyze the process such as smoking and high exposure to UV radiation as well as a diet of highly refined sugars.

Collagen in supplements:

Now, what exactly are the collagen supplements we take? As mentioned above, collagen is a protein that is mainly composed of 3 amino acids. Collagens on the market often come from animals, and often include 2-3 of the essential collagen amino acids. Collagen is often sold in the form of powders, pills, or gummies. All of these are digested in the GI tract and broken down into their constituent molecules. That is to say, when you add collagen powder to your beverage, it does not directly go to supporting, say, your skin. The body will break down the collagen, and transport it to where it is needed. As mentioned above, collagen is present in arteries as well as in the bone. If your body decides it needs the extra amino acids in the bone, it will go there. Unfortunately, we cannot choose to direct the collagen to the skin. Across the many different types of supplements, there are also many different types of collagen. Some included Pro-hyp and Hyp-gly, and LC and HC (low content and high content). Therefore, it is important to keep in mind across brands and companies types of collagens as well as concentrations vary, affecting the quality and quantity your body is actually receiving.

What do the studies say?

Now, let’s dive into some scientific studies. With the growing trends, there have been scientific studies carried out to attempt to determine unbiasedly (or as close as possible) if these supplements are setting out what they promised to do. In a study by Sugihara et al, it was seen that skin elasticity was increased and roughness was decreased, over the timescale of 8 weeks. This study contained subjects taking supplements as well as placebos, thereby mitigating any confounding factors. The skin roughness and elasticity was measured using various medical devices. However, it is difficult to characterize these elusive devices and know exactly how accurate they are and the ways they measure texture. 

Additionally, a study was done by Bolke et al which investigated skin texture of subjects after taking a drinkable collagen for 12 weeks. It was seen over the course of the study that elasticity, roughness, density, and hydration were all improved over the time course. The subjects taking placebos had similar results, but to a lesser degree of improvement. However, it is important to note this study was done on a small timescale, and more data is needed to determine long term effects and results of taking collagen. 

In a comprehensive review published by the NIH, hydrolyzed collagen was specifically looked at across studies for its potential use for skin improvement. 19 studies were combined for quantitative analysis on 1,125 subjects. It was seen in the analysis that skin improvement was visible after around 90 days. More work needs to be done on the long term effects as well as the maintenance required for taking the supplements. For example, to see results does one need to continue taking collagen or is it possible to stop after some critical threshold?

Overall, studies have shown that collagen can potentially increase your skin’s elasticity, firmness, and hydration if taken orally. These results were often seen months in, and results were relatively maintained after stopping taking the supplements. However, it is difficult to synthesize studies with wide varieties of methods and subjects into one decisive conclusion. Also, it should be noted there are possible ulterior motives or financial ties to companies across studies. From these papers, we can reasonably say that collagen supplements are beneficial but not a miracle product.

Wrap Up:

Taking collagen supplements will aid in skin, bone, and overall wellness. However, this is not a miracle drug that will transform your skin and halt aging. It is important to set expectations reasonably, and it seems across these studies that over a span of months skin improvement can be seen when taking collagen. Additionally, I think it is important to reiterate that if you take a collagen supplement, the amino acids will not go directly to your skin. Your body will use the extra protein where it is needed, be it your legs or teeth. Across all of the studies, there were no reported adverse effects to taking the supplement. Therefore, the supplements seem in my opinion to be neutral-positive. What I mean by that is that taking collagen could increase your skin quality and improve texture, but it depends how you weigh it against other factors such as cost and time commitment. Is it worth it to spend the money on collagen supplements, or is it better to use that money on a better moisturizer? Unfortunately there is no definitive answer to these types of questions, and it is up to the user to decide. However, looking at studies and assessing the viability is always an important first step.

Thanks for reading! If there is a wellness/ skincare trend you are curious about please reach out to me and I’ll happily cover it!